Seabirds and Salt Breezes
SOC Touring heads for the Far East
A sketch report by Tony Scott on the joint SOC Ayrshire Branch and RSPB Ayrshire members Groups' long weekend at Seahouses, the Farne Islands and the East Lothian Coast.
Saturday 5th to Monday 7th May 2001
Trip organised by Tony Scott.
Bird leader: Jim Thomson.
Saturday 5 May
Sitting comfortably aboard one of Clyde Coast Coaches' executive touring vehicles, our group was heading out along the A77 from Ayr towards Glasgow with a complement of 21. Space enough for each person to occupy two seats should they be so inclined. The long weekend almost didn't happen. Almost. But a mixture of determination and compromise can, must and in this case, was found. Faced with the worst outbreak of foot and mouth disease this country has ever witnessed and compounded by what appeared to be out-of-date and mediaeval practices to nullify the outbreak in this, the 21st century, appeared both disturbing and senseless at the same time. Even if MAFF were burning the nation's bulls, we were determined not to burn the club's boats. Not when so many had been looking forward to this weekend of pure escapism for so long.
After consulting the odd Oracle or two - in the shape of official websites - we eventually determined what was permissible, what was open and where. Our compromise itinerary was not about to compromise our enjoyment and Plan B was now activated. We had set out in the sunshine, always a good omen. Even in the ice-flows of Shotts, the sun was flirting with the mist which usually adorns this Central Scottish Valhalla. As we glided down the M8 towards Harthill Services for eggs sunny-side up or whatever else was to tickle the fickle palates, we anticipated the other pleasures in store over the coming three days of pure ornithological hedonism.
Hunger and thirst stilled now, we proceeded on a circumnavigation of Edinburgh - and on for a first taste of the sparkling, clean and tidy villages of East Lothian. Longniddry, Aberlady, and passing over the Links of Gullane where many a player's head turned sharply to read the legend 'Perry Golf ' along the side of our silver coach. "What the.....not a bus load of US golf tourists perchance...?" We were reading the minds of those out enjoying their birdies in the morning sunlight. Little did they know that the Golfing Coach was bearing a group of folks all-of-a-twitch for that very reason. Our own anticipated birdies of the day were kicking up a stink out in the Firth. Gannets Ya Bass! Our first encounter with these denizens of the rocks was quite sanitised however. The new Seabird Centre at North Berwick ensured it. With video cameras set up on the island of Fidra and the Bass Rock we could focus on large quantities of odourless seabirds at a stroke. A hole-in-one straight off and not an eagle in sight. Gannets by the thousand though, guillemots too, as well as eider, shelduck, oystercatcher, fulmar, cormorant, shag, kittiwakes and more. Everyone was agreed that this new centre interprets the bird life hereabouts in a truly exceptional manner with an introductory live talk, a well-made film on the subject and then straight for the hands-on experience.
We wanted more. Well, who wouldn't? Our appetites whetted, nothing less than the Full Monty would satisfy, so negotiations with Fred Marr the Bass boatman, commenced. After a brief interlude for lunch, almost all of us managed to join the motor vessel 'Sula II' on its special voyage outward bound from North Berwick harbour. An international group of maritime conservationists were aboard, and we had quickly filled up the spare spaces. It is one thing to enjoy flawless images of living birds on a video screen, but quite another to actually be there, to experience it warts and all. Sea spray on the face, the taste of salt on the lips and the penetrating stench of gannets' guano hitting the senses. We had arrived. The Bass loomed above us and the seabirds wheeled and mewed high over our heads against a powder blue sky. We were close enough not to need binoculars, not unless one wished to look a northern gannet straight into its black-ringed, beady eye. What a view, well over 50,000 gannets encircling us, nesting, skypointing, soaring or plunging like an arrow into the Prussian blue waters of the cold firth. Not only gannets though, so many other hundreds and thousands of seabirds on the water, in the air or on the rock. If it's a European shag you're looking for, this is the place to come. A cave full of them - along with great cormorant, northern fulmar, Atlantic puffin, common guillemot, kittiwake, lesser black-backed gull, herring gull and more are all here to complete the picture on this amazing rock.
Back ashore, we boarded the coach for Dunbar. Just a short ride away for a pleasant walk, a chance to stamp away the effects of lunch and make some space for dinner tonight. David our driver, dropped us to the south of the town at Belhaven Bay. Consciously turning our backs on the well-known brewery of the same name we headed for the sea, the sand and the cliffs. Mute swan were out in the bay, common shelduck too. The hunched figures of two grey heron were sitting at the water's edge looking for afternoon tea. Mallard were about and plenty of common eider out on the briny. Eurasian oystercatchers were noisily hunting the rock pools and ringed plover scuttled to and fro over the pebbly shore. Little knots of purple sandpiper were close to the waters edge and Eurasian curlew were first calling, then seen coming to land - their long curved bills and upright stance silhouetted against the sea which was changing shades from a light blue to a steely grey. The sun was now hiding behind the clouds for longer periods. Ruddy turnstone added colour to the scene and were busying themselves doing what they do best. Overhead an occasional sandwich tern was sighted. As we approached Dunbar harbour the white blotches covering the red sandstone ruins of the one-time extensive castle became recognisable as kittiwakes in their hundreds, many calling their own name. We were not to leave Dunbar without incident though, as we had a fallen lady in our midst. But all's well that ends well, the fallen lady was saved and we could then continue, albeit with black eyes rather than blue bonnets, over the border.
Arriving in Seahouses early evening, we enjoyed splendid sunset views of the Farne Islands as we dined. Mine hosts of the cosy Beach House Hotel, Hazel and Malcolm Brown, chatting away like old friends. Five minutes here is all you require to feel at home.
It is not only the food which warms the cockles of your heart, but the friendliness and bonhomie of all the staff, some family and all friends. As we tucked into our roast duck, lamb casserole, seafood parcels and so on..... we could appreciate the all-round experience of the place and the view, the view! We gazed across at tomorrows destination, the Farne Islands, in perfect anticipation. Savour the moment. 'Bon Appetit.'
Sunday 6 May
'Up in the morning's no' for me, up in the morning early.....' Maybe a few would normally say that, but not so many today. A splendid spring morning, a nip in the air, the song of the skylark above, the sound of the waves lapping the shore and the sun promising some heat later on. Standing near the dunes on the edge of Seahouses, both meadow and rock pipit were up and about. Pied wagtail, common linnet, house sparrow and common starling were gracing the seafront gardens. Barn swallow and house martins were swooping overhead and grasshopper warblers were heard amongst the duneland scrub. Birds, breezes and now for breakfast. Hazel's hot, home-baked baps were a delightful accompaniment to the big Northumbrian breakfast placed before us. Bamburgh bangers, free-range eggs and local bacon filled the bill nicely. Just the ticket for a life on the ocean wave.
Isn't it just great to relax? What better way than a quiet, unhurried stroll down to the harbour, once we had sorted out everyone's lunch packets that is. 'Man, there's nothin' like home cured ham an' pease pudden.' Malcolm had observed that the wise ones had made this choice of sandwich filling today. Collecting our tickets from Billy Shiel's office at the quayside, we were soon escorted to the outer harbour. Low tide at this time, so many steps had to be gently trod before boarding the 'Glad Tidings IV', complete with the original and genuine Billy Shiel on board to guide us over the dangers of the deep, good shepherd of the seas that he is. Billy must have eased many a boat out of the harbour and between the rocks and coves of the Farne Islands group more times than he may care to remember, just as he was about to do yet again. High above us on the quayside, Donny and Alethea waved goodbye. They were spending the day at Berwick-upon-Tweed and enjoying the splendour of nearby Bamburgh Castle. David would drive them safely there and back and they would have the choice of 49 seats today all to themselves. Was it to be musical chairs on a Magical Mystery Tour?
Easing out of the harbour we soon realised that what appeared to be a calm sea, wasn't. Rolling gently, a flotilla of small boats made their way towards Staple Island. The pillar box red of St. Cuthbert's Boats vying with the bright blue and white of Billy Shiel's fleet. Some were on a half day trip, but we were out for the whole day. Well, six hours anyway. Before reaching Staple Island we cruised around the seal colonies and many of the small islands and stacks where thousands of seabirds breed. Brownsman, the Nameless Rock, South Wamses, North Wamses, Big Harrax, Little Harrax and the island of Longstone, made famous by Grace Darling as she set out to rescue mariners wrecked on the rocks more than a century ago.
Our luck was in today. The sea, although with a fair swell, was a magnificent azure blue below a cloudless ultramarine sky. Or so it appeared to be as the sky contrasted with the guano white of the rocks and stacks. The sheer volume of seabirds, both in sound and number was truly amazing. The sea was boiling with puffins at one point and cormorant, guillemot and shag were nesting in the most unlikely places. Kittiwakes abounded, herring gull, lesser black-backs and quite a number of terns were in the air. This inter-bird island cruising could have gone on and on.....but soon it was time to land on Staple Island, cared for by England's National Trust. What we had already witnessed was breathtaking, but what awaited us ashore was even more incredible.
Imagine walking close to countless numbers of puffins near their burrows, along boardwalks where shags were sitting on their nests filled with eggs. Walking through guillemots as if amongst a field of brown and white poppies, alive and moving in the breeze. Razorbills and kittiwakes so close you could touch them. This remarkable island is a wildlife experience second to none. Memories of Africa's Masai Mara conjure pictures of families of lions, cheetah and elephant at equally close range, relative to their size. But to get so close to birdlife as here on the Farnes is just not possible and not in such numbers. The bird species seen here may well be mainly predictable, but the spectacle is overwhelming. This is a place to return to again and again. Lunch was taken on the rocks, still surrounded by the sounds and smell of seabirds, a natural cacophony of notes and chords. Nature producing its own version of a Harrison Birtwistle symphonic poem, but better.
Soon we were off island hopping once more, joining the 'Glad Tidings IV' for the short trip over to Inner Farne. Where Staple Island is full of rocky outcrops with minimal grassland where the puffin breed, Inner Farne is exactly the reverse, being mainly grass with a few cliffs and stacks and shingly shore. On arrival we were greeted by the massed sounds of a sandwich tern choir. Arctic and common terns had also arrived, but nesting had not yet begun so neither had the dive-bombing of visitors. The grating, rasping sounds of the airborne terns was all around us and close views, particularly of Arctic terns was enjoyed. Another welcome visitor today was the northern wheatear, good to see them passing by en-route to their final destination. By the time we were due to leave Inner Farne, William had become a confident crew member of the 'Glad Tidings IV' and was helping everyone aboard and again at Seahouses harbour as we disembarked. Billy Shiel may wish to enlist him as a full-time crew member one of these fine days.
Once again - a dining room with a view provided a fitting end to such a perfect day. Donny and Alethea had also returned with long tales of the delights of Bamburgh. Donny was still talking about it shortly before midnight until Malcolm asked if he would switch off the lights before retiring. 'I don't like your altitude' was Donny's reply. He is indeed a tall man, a retired police officer would you believe. Sleep tight.
Monday 7 May
We may have been out and about quite early yesterday morning, but today was even earlier. Just as well, unexpected delights were in store for those early worms out to catch the birds. Our target was to see grasshopper warbler, not just hear them. We were successful and happy to get a sighting of a pair. Imagine our delight on seeing what has sadly become a rarity, corn bunting. Sitting up clearly for all to see, singing away happily and just waiting to be photographed. Yellowhammer was sighted too, along with common linnet, European greenfinch, chaffinch, common whitethroat, sedge warbler, song thrush, skylark, house martin and barn swallow. Other pleasures of a different kind awaited us in the breakfast room. Craster kippers were on the menu today, a truly noteworthy event, Forget it, on our return there was great excitement. Everyone was rushing to Henry's room. What was the commotion all about? Yellow wagtails in the garden - and both Henry and Robin had the best views, but everyone got their turn in the end.
Hazel, Malcolm and all the members of staff assembled at the dining room window to wave goodbye as we boarded our coach. A final friendly gesture which you would not always expect or receive elsewhere. Heading north once again through Bamburgh, our first port of call today was across the causeway at Lindisfarne on Holy Island. Need to watch the tide times, yes - checked and double checked! This is a place of peace and tranquillity. Seal colonies viewed across the bay and sightings of some waders and other seabirds. Great cormorant, common shelduck, common eider, red-breasted merganser, Eurasian oystercatcher, northern lapwing, dunlin, common redshank, some terns out to sea and mute swans in the harbour. Skylark sang on high as we made our way over the high level path with Lindisfarne Priory to our left and the bulk of Lindisfarne castle standing sentinel ahead of us. Barn swallow, meadow pipit, grey wagtail, pied wagtail, winter wren, stonechat and even two tree sparrows were seen around the harbour and the meadows close by. Pleasant to stroll, to meander over this lovely island, but lunch time loomed and we had fresh, local crab on our mind and very soon in our stomachs. Eaten in the sunshine of the 'Ship Inn' and its enclosed garden. A pint of the local hand drawn Holy Island bitter just to send us to sleep as we jogged our way over the causeway and off towards East Lothian again.
Before we knew it we were driving into the bustling centre of Musselburgh, where we alighted for a walk along the River Esk and out to the Musselburgh lagoons. Who would believe it, another yellow wagtail seen here. A double first for some. Nesting mute swan on the river and greylag on the banks. Common eider were seen from the promenade, common shelduck, northern fulmar, northern gannet and common goldeneye too. Over at the hides looking out to the lagoons we saw common pheasant, grey partidge, ringed plover, grey plover and a plethora of waders over at the active lagoons. Red knot, dunlin, bar-tailed godwit, common sandpiper, ruddy turnstone.....quite a collection and good numbers all round. Time goes by so quickly and before long it was time to rejoin our coach at the High Street again. So, the afternoon was over and with it our long weekend. Almost.
Still time for a drive through the centre of our capital city. Edinburgh looks splendid at any time, and today in the sunshine, folk were enjoying the pleasures of al fresco eating at the many cafes and bars of this wonderfully civilized, truly European capital. 'Ah, sweet Edinburgh I smell thee now'. Can't remember who said that but they were possibly referring to Usher's (in)famous brewery. Today, the smell of hops may mingle with more exotic odours, culinary perfumes from all corners of the globe. Canton, Italy, Japan, France, Switzerland, Thailand, India, Spain, Greece.... you name it, you can smell it, eat it, drink it and pay for it right here in Edinburgh. 'You'll have had your tea then.....?'
We were heading out towards South Queensferry and well away from any temptation of exotic food. Our culinary experience was definitely of the British Pub variety. Traditional English favourites like Chicken Tikka or Thai Red Chicken Curry. Other exotica such as Sausage and Mash, or Fish and Chips, were also on offer at our 'Brewer's Fayre'. As well as Belhaven Best or the Cream of Manchester - a pint of Boddie's. Ah, its all as English as Jellied Eels, as Scottish as Haggis and Neeps. It may not be Haute Cuisine, but better than MacDonalds in any event! And a fitting end to a truly wonderful long weekend. What else can we say? Time for a group photograph. 'Say Cheeeeese!'
Those participating in our trip were: (in order of booking):
Kevin Waite; Robin Turner; Henry Martin; William McKie; Ronnie Coombes; Edna Robertson; Tony and Pauline Barr; Adam McEwen; Anne Dick; Nancy and Charlie Conner; Donny and Alethea Oldfield; Deone Finlayson; Graeme and Vivien Ballantine; Anne Marie Madden; Tony and Gerda Scott and Jim Thomson.
Footnote: We had originally planned to visit the SWT reserve at St. Abbs Head en-route to Seahouses. On Monday the 7th our original plan took us south along the Northumbrian coast to nearby Low Newton, Embleton Links and Dunstanburgh Castle. In the afternoon we were planning a visit to the Hirsel before returning to Ayrshire. The alternative route was decided upon after the outbreak of foot and mouth, to comply with official recommendations.